| from St Kilda stories by
Ian Stephen from the 'open spaces, wild places' issue of island |
|
A
Harris blue and indigo and sapphire The
St Kildan boats weren’t so different. Never had that love for them but
maybe landlords wanted coils of dried salt ling more than the islanders.
The boat was the way to get out to the stacs. Double-ended of course and
a very full shape in the stern above the waterline. A lot of buoyancy
there. There had to be. You’d to get close enough for your man to take
a leap, between the swell. Looking for the chance. As often as not
he’d come crashing back down between the boat and the stac. Get hauled
aboard, shaking himself off like a dog. More bothered by the loss of
dignity than by the cold. Now
you’d think when you saw all that white mass of birds, there’d be
enough food for the St Kildans, there on Hiort and Boreray. And Soay is
close enough to Hiort but to land on it, you’ve got to get round that
bad corner. Cross the cord of tide that joins Levenish to Dun. All that
blur of white you see, that’s all families of fulmars and gannets and
gulls. So after you’ve taken a picking from this cliff, that cliff,
it’s time to move on. And then maybe the birds are looking a bit
thicker out on the stacs. Even Stac Soay, out in the small Sound. Even
Stac Biroch. That’s a pike and it gives the name to the spur-dogfish,
the big grey one that can give you a dirty wound. Well Stac Biroch is
like that, a wet shiny spur. Even the St Kildans gave up on that one
latterly. But this time they’ve all gotten on to the rock and raised an arm from the rope to wave to the boat. She’s gotten away clear so they’ve no worries. Now they’d all be dressed much the same, best of gear they had for protection. Job lot of whatever was available when the factor’s boat was coming out. This time it was grey tunics like blanket-cloth and bonnets that were blue once. Most of the colour bleached out now, from the salt. And
working away on the ropes, the crack would be flying, winding each other
up with it, turn about. Not bothering much about a bit of drizzle,
there’s that much spray reaching up there anyway. Till it falls right
quiet. One of them’s seen something down below and they’re turning
their looks down. It’s a body in the water. Floating, face down. And
it’s dressed, same as themselves, the grey tunic, the blue bonnet. But
there’s nobody missing and there’s been no accident as long back as
it’s worth remembering. A
big blackback is perched on its shoulder and pecking away at its neck.
Well whoever that was, they can’t just leave it like that. So
they’re securing their snares and getting ready to go down to try to
recover it when they see the current catching it and it’s off, swept
clear of the stac and out to sea. Well there’s never been one come
back from out there so what can they do but say a bit of a prayer and
get back to their business. Their harvest of fulmar. As
soon as they’re started back there’s a cry. One of them slips and
he’s down in the water. He’s glanced his head on the rock on the way
down. He’s floating face down. What they’re seeing now is the body
in the grey tunic and the blue bonnet. Before anyone can do a thing they
see a blackback land there on his shoulder and it’s pecking away at
his neck. |